Barbarian Days

A Surfing Life

William Finnegan

Recommended By

Book Synopsis

"Barbarian Days" by William Finnegan is a captivating memoir that takes readers on an extraordinary journey through the author's life as a surfer.

Spanning four decades, Finnegan's heartfelt narrative chronicles his relentless pursuit of the perfect wave across the globe. From his early days as a teenager riding the powerful swells of Honolulu and California, to his adventures in far-flung destinations like Australia, Indonesia, and South Africa, Finnegan explores the unique beauty and challenges of each surf spot.

But "Barbarian Days" is not only about chasing waves. Finnegan delves deeply into the subculture surrounding surfing, offering keen observations on environmental concerns, the impact of tourism, and the tight-knit community of fellow surfers.

Intertwined with his captivating surf stories are personal reflections on love, friendship, and the delicate balance between passion and responsibility. Finnegan's introspective writing style effortlessly brings to life the exhilaration and inherent risks of living on the edge, both on and off the water.

With its poetic prose and vivid descriptions, "Barbarian Days" is a must-read for surf enthusiasts and adventure seekers alike. Finnegan's ability to transport readers to the ocean's edge, to capture the essence of the waves, and to illuminate the complexities of the human spirit makes this memoir a timeless classic.

Explore More Books

See All
The Hour Between Dog and Wolf
The Middle Kingdoms
Confessions of a Pricing Man
The Sixth Man
The Fourth Revolution
Ask The Dust
Frisco Kid
She Said
Secrets of Closing the Sale
The Bed of Procrustes
Chapterhouse: Dune
Fundamentals of Plasma Physics
The Almanack of Naval Ravikant
The Age of Surveillance Capitalism
The Devil’s Financial Dictionary
Rick and Morty Book Three
What If?
Keeping At It
Bel Canto
The Mind Doesn't Work That Way
Gold In The Grass
Poor Charlie's Almanack
Foundation and Earth
The Legend of Henry Ford
The Weather Makers
A Time for New Dreams
On Writing Well
The Nature of the Beast
Remote: Office Not Required
The Third Chimpanzee
The DevOps Handbook
English Culture and the Decline of the Industrial Spirit, 1850-1980
The Magic of Thinking Big
Happy Money
The Mind of Napoleon
The Yoga Sutra of Patanjali
Breath From Salt
Cultural Strategy
Getting Real
Tribe of Mentors
Simple & Direct
The Psychedelic Explorer's Guide
Simple Rules
The Great Challenge
Tenth of December
Not Fade Away
Goethe’s Poems and Aphorisms
Thank You For Smoking
Mathematician's Delight
The Inner Lives of Markets
Maisy Mouse Collection
More Heat Than Light
The Healing Journey
Life 3.0
Discovering Your Personality Type
Of Wolves and Men
Warren Buffett
The Unbearable Lightness of Being
Devil's Harbor
The Utopia of Rules
The Power of Habit
Rich Dad's Cashflow Quadrant
The Sovereign Individual
Tools and Weapons
Competing in the Age of AI
How to Be Topp
The Warrior Ethos
Anything You Want
No Bullshit Guide to Math and Physics
The Female Brain
Adaptive Markets
Things Hidden Since the Foundation of the World
The Creative Act
The Charisma Myth
A Sense of Where You Are
The Order of Time
With the Old Breed
The Diversity Bonus
Welcome to Your Brain
Toussaint Louverture
Tlon, Uqbar, Orbis Tertius
The Truth Machine
Good To Great
The War of Art
Technical Analysis of the Financial Markets
Plowman's Folly
Friday Forward
The Price of Tomorrow
The Art of Memoir
The Sleep Revolution